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Every day, one of us goes out to purchase one of the stunning new digital cameras and camcorders - many of which feature a special connection called IEEE 1394 (also called Firewire on a Mac) - only to discover there is no obvious way to connect them to their Windows PC. This happens not just with cameras, but with external drives and some of the other types of today's hottest equipment.

But before you throw up your hands and take the purchase back, understand that an additional purchase, one far cheaper than a whole new PC, should get you up and running with that great new camera. The cost can be as low as $10-15 and usually about 10-15 minutes of your time. Compare that to your time spent camera shopping and this extra investment is a breeze.

While many Windows PCs today come with IEEE 1394 ports, not all do. Budget systems are the most likely not to come with the necessary hardware, but you can find systems in all price ranges that still don't offer the technology.

Yet, as long as your PC was manufactured in the last three or four years (older ones may be able to handle the addition if you can download an update to your BIOS, or the programmable part of your motherboard), you should be able to add an IEEE 1394 adapter to give you the needed ports to connect cameras and other IEEE 1394 devices. An adapter is a special printed circuit board that installs to one of the available expansion slots located on your PC motherboard. This means you have to go inside the PC to install the adapter. Even if you have never gone inside the case before, the job isn't too difficult. You just need to follow instructions and pay attention to detail.

The very first thing you need to do is check the package for the new camera or other IEEE 1394 device. Under System Requirements, you may find exactly what you need to add the port to the PC. If not, you may be able to go on the Web to find the specifics for this device; a visit to the manufacturer's Web site may do the trick. Next, you need to get the adapter. You can order these online at just about any place that sells computer hardware but most consumer electronics stores sell them, too. Before you purchase, however, read the details on the box or the Web page. Be sure the adapter is compatible with the version of Windows you or your gift recipient runs. This is important.

If the camera is for you, you also have the job of installing the adapter. First, read the directions carefully: they aren't just box filler and some offer critical tips you'll need.

Next, follow these basic steps to install the IEEE 1394 adapter while remembering what the adapter documentation says:

1. Shut down your Windows PC.
2. Remove the power plug from the back of the PC (turning it off is not enough because a certain amount of power continues to flow into the system when it is off).
3. Remove your PC case cover. Different cases open up in various ways. Most have one to four retaining screws holding the cover in place; you must remove these screws to slide the cover off. Your PC manual should detail how to do this.
4. Look but don't touch (see Step 5). Locate an open PCI slot in your PC. Often, these are white or blue in color, and there are often between three and seven of them, some of which are already occupied by other devices. This is where your adapter will install.
5. Don't touch anything inside the case until you ground yourself. A great addition to your PC toolkit is a grounding wrist strap, available at any consumer electronics store. This is designed to prevent a static electrical charge being carried from you to the electronics inside the case. But if you don't have one, touch both hands to the metal sides of the case before you
6. If there is a faceplate that covers the spot where the slot you'll install the adapter meets the back of the PC, remove the faceplate. Some push out while most require you to remove a screw. You likely won't need the faceplate again but keep the screw so you can finish installing the adapter.
7 Following printed instructions, remove the IEEE 1394 adapter from its box and then set it down carefully on top of the box.
8. Ground yourself again. Also be careful not to touch anything else.
9. Pick up the adapter and locate its connector edge. This is usually gold with “teeth” that match the design of the PCI slot where you install it.
10. Insert the adapter firmly and evenly into its slot. Do not apply heavy pressure but do not leave the adapter only partly inserted or it will not work.
11. Once the adapter is in place, take the screw you removed with the faceplate and use it to screw down the adapter in the same screw hole where you removed the faceplate.
12. Eyeball your work once more to make certain everything appears fine.
13. Replace the cover and reconnect the PC power before you restart the PC.
14. Windows should automatically detect the new hardware when it starts up but you may need to insert a disc that came with the adapter; follow on-screen instructions.
15. Once Windows installs support for the adapter, you can connect the camera.

IEEE 1394 devices, like its cousins that use the Universal Serial Bus (USB) port, are called “hot plug” devices. This means they should always be installed with Windows up and running. Follow the camera directions to install the camera - or other device - and you should be good to go.

Here's something else to consider: if you plan on giving an IEEE 1394 camera or other device as a gift, try to determine if your recipient has an IEEE 1394 port already. If not, you may want to spend a few extra dollars to buy the adapter and include it with your gift. This way, the recipient's excitement over the cool present won't be tempered by frustration. Remember: even adults can behave like an unhappy child who gets a fantastic new toy only to find out Mom or Dad doesn't have the right batteries to run it.

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My XP installation got hosed at home. It would not boot and it was neither the MBR nor the partition's boot loader, so I was going to have to repair all the drivers. I took the opportunity to install Windows7 on a new RAID1 volume on 2 new 1TB Barracudas. I got the upgrade retail box which says “All editions of Windows XP and Vista qualify you to upgrade.” It seemed safest to unplug the old drive during the install. But this let me unable to activate Windows7 even after I plugged in the old drive (to copy over the old files). It seems that Windows7 wants to see the old installation (not just the old install media, as in the past) while it is installing if you want to use an upgrade product key.

Here is the solution I used; very easy:

Clean Install Windows 7 With Upgrade Media and Product Key on Formatted or Empty Blank Hard Drive » My Digital Life

Workaround 3: Clean Install and Activate Windows 7 with MediaBootInstall Registry Hack

1. After booting up, ensure that no Windows Updates pending task which requires a system reboot to finish installing.

   Tip: Normally, an orange-colored shield icon will be displayed next to Shutdown button in the Start Menu Power Button or at notification tray area if a restart is required.

   If reboot is required, restart the computer to allow any pending updates is installed.

2. Run Registry Editor (RegEdit).
3. Navigate to the following registry key:

   HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Setup\OOBE

4. In the right pane, change the value data for MediaBootInstall from 1 to0.

   Alternatively, just download and execute MediaBootInstall.reg to merge the value into registry.

5. Open an elevated command prompt as administrator.
6. Run the command below to reset Windows 7 activation status:

   slmgr -rearm

7. Reboot the computer.
8. Run the Activate Windows utility (accessible from bottom section ofControl Panel -> System and Security -> System, or type Activate Windows into Start Search), type in the upgrade product key and activate Windows.

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The brand new line of desktops will have a complete lot much more new functions and operate very much smoother using the newest Windows working technique. Older computers that can only operate XP will have to keep their old operating program. The new range of PCs is very much greater how to fix blue screen of death have been for Vista.

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The official statement from Microsoft last week was:

“Microsoft has been made aware that some computers running Windows 7 receive a warning that the battery needs to be replaced when the battery is new or in good health. In conjunction with our hardware partners, we are investigating this issue. The warning received on some computers using Windows 7 uses firmware information (information about hardware status provided by the PC itself) to determine if battery replacement is needed. We are working with our partners to determine the root cause of what appear to be erroneous warnings and will update the TechNet forum with information and guidance as it becomes available.

The battery notification is new functionality in Windows 7, so the notification itself should not be an indication that customers are having this issue. Windows Vista and Windows XP did not display notifications when it was time to replace the battery. Customers who have already confirmed their battery is fine should contact Microsoft technical assistance for help.”

Then, over the weekend I received a status update from a Microsoft source that asked to remain anonymous since the statement was unofficial:

“We've had 8 million pre-release testers on old hardware, 60 million PCs, and now this report of battery problems on old hardware is surfacing. This appears to be a very limited issue–aside from the discussion in the forum you noted in your story, we have yet to see any official reports or open tickets come in through tech support call centers. In testing on this issue the root cause appears to be actual battery performance or failure, which Windows 7 is reporting (via the notification), but not causing. So the notifications appear to be working as they were designed to do from what we're seeing. Microsoft has extensive testing, QA and support efforts and has multiple groups looking deeper at this issue, along with our OEM partners, to ensure that it is, in fact, the anomaly that it appears to be at present.”

That update was followed with a similar declaration by Steven Sinofksy, president of the Windows Division for Microsoft, in a blog post on the Engineering Windows 7 blog:

“Using all the tools at our disposal including contacting customers reporting this issue on forums, customer service communications, partnerships with our PC makers, and of course the telemetry in Windows 7, we have been monitoring reports and discussions regarding this new feature, trying to separate reports of the designed behavior from those that might indicate an issue with Windows 7. In the latter cases we are trying to understand the scope of applicability and obtain hardware on which to reproduce a faulty behavior.   To date all such steps indicate that we do have customers seeing reports of battery health issues and in all cases we have investigated Windows 7 has simply accurately detected a failing battery. “

Sinofsky does more than simply deny responsibility or pass the buck, though. He provides an in-depth explanation of how the hardware, the battery, and the operating system work together to determine and report on the condition of the battery.

The crux of the problem may lie in simply misunderstanding an alert that is new to Windows 7. Sinofsky explains:

“Windows 7 makes use of a feature of modern laptop batteries which have circuitry and firmware that can report to Windows the overall health of the battery. This is reported in absolute terms as Watt-hours (W-hr) power capacity. Windows 7 then does a simple calculation to determine a percentage of degradation from the original design capacity. In Windows 7 we set a threshold of 60 percent degradation (that is the battery is performing at 40 percent of its designed capacity) and in reading this Windows 7 reports the status to you. At this point, for example, a battery that originally delivered 5 hours of charge now delivers, on average, approximately 2 hours of charge. The Windows 7 notification is a battery meter icon and notification with a message “Consider replacing your battery”. This notification is new to Windows 7 and not available in Windows Vista or Windows XP.” [emphasis from Sinofsky, not me]

So, to sum it up, the Windows 7 battery issue seems to boil down to Windows 7 correctly reporting that the battery is performing at less than 40 percent of its specified capacity, but alarming users who have been using Windows XP or Windows Vista and believed the battery to be functioning as designed.

Looked at from that perspective, it seems that Windows 7 is actually just doing its power management and battery life capacity reporting job too well, and that users who don't like the new warning message would prefer not to be reminded that the battery is slowly dying.

Tony Bradley tweets as @Tony_BradleyPCW, and can be contacted at his Facebook page.

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If you've got tried all but Home windows 7 is still running slow, I extremely suggest you attempt to use fix windows installer error 1706 to maintain your computer timely and make your House windows 7 fly again.

3 Responses to “Why does Windows 7 restart the entire installation process after it restarts from installing?”

1. gicutale Says:
   

   February 5th, 2010 at 11:02 am

   You have to press any key just one time, the very first time the install begins. Second restart, third, and so, just let it boot and you’ll reach the finish. Good luck!

2. Yeti Says:
   

   February 5th, 2010 at 11:02 am

   It’ll restart several times, and at different stages you can sometimes press a key to accelerate what it will do automatically anyway by a few seconds.

   You might have something going on with your CD/DVD drive or your BIOS startup settings or something, but otherwise I’d just start the install and let it run without interference. It will restart several times, but each time it’s actually a little bit farther ahead in the install process, or at least should be.

3. LoverOfWine Says:
   

   February 5th, 2010 at 11:02 am

   That has nothing to do with Windows 7 but is the BIOS in your machine. Certain classes of BIOS don’t assume that you want to boot from CD/DVD so will always ask if a bootable one is there.

   In your case you want to tell the computer to do it only once, when you begin the installation, not anytime after. Doing it after will restart the installation process from the beginning. If you ignore the prompt and not press a key, then the current state of the Win7 install will take over an resume the installation.

   You could also pop out the CD/DVD after it reboots to avoid the prompt. If it needs something it will prompt you for the disk again.

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Video, Windows 7 and Windows Phone

I keep thinking back to the theft of my laptop last year. I’ve had maybe a dozen laptops over the years and I haven’t really the same bond with them that I have with, say, my cameras. Even so whichever laptop I happen to have at the time goes everywhere with me like some kind of comfort blanket. It might be a business machine, but I do personal stuff on it. There’s business payoff to that that, the fact I am on-line and signed into Exchange and Office Communications Server when I’m editing photos (for example) means that colleagues from the other side of the world can get hold of me at all kinds of odd hours, but it’s my choice of hours.  Windows 7 is the first time that we have put Media Center into the Professional and Enterprise editions of the product, so now I have a machine which is both protected with Bitlocker (good for IT) and when I’m travelling I can take the USB TV receiver or programmes I’ve recorded on the Media Center at home.

With the new phone I thought I’d try taking a TV recording I’d made under Windows 7 and moving it over from the Sync panel in Windows Media player. This works, but with the downside that the video is resized down below the resolution of the screen and I went off round the following loop.

* Expansys can supply me with a Video cable for the phone
* I now have a 16GB memory card in the phone. [This was a special offer from Expansys, £30.47 including taxes shipping etc –my memory of prices gone by makes this seem so cheap. How much cheaper will memory be in a year or two.]
* If I convert my TV recordings to 480p resolution WMV I can then play these from the phone to a TV or whatever

Then I came to a stop because:

(a) The 480p / 30 Frames per second video that came out of Movie maker was too much for the phone (it might be speed of reading from the card or CPU/Graphics chip might not be up to the job, it might work better with a different codec)
(b) I’m probably going to have to power the phone because this will chomp through the battery at quite a speed. Where will the power supply be ? In the bag with my laptop, along with the video cable.  – or more likely if I’m travelling I will charge the phone from the laptop.

In short the phone is a nice music player but it is best suited to playing low-res video. If I’m anywhere that I can use a big screen I’ll have my laptop. Since Windows 7 gives me media centre why would I waste time with the other stuff ? 

Just on music front, I’m expecting to have a combined USB / Jack plug connection box in my car soon, it can play MP3 files via USB or anything the phone can output (via another connection adapter) to a jack plug. I have put voice command 1.6 on the phone so I can control Windows Media player by tapping my bluetooth earpiece and saying “Play artist/Album/whatever” – which is always a fun trick when the phone is in one room and you are in another. In the days when 512MB was a big storage card it made a lot of sense to use WMA files as used less space than Mp3 for the same quality. But depending how well the MP3 side of the adapter integrates with the existing stereo controls I want to use the phone’s ability to go into “Mass storage class” mode and act like a USB stick, which which will mean transcoding (or re-ripping) music to play in the car. I’ll be spending enough time doing that to not want to bother doing the same for video. Heck, I still have a decent pile of vinyl albums I keep saying I will digitize and haven’t got round to.

Remember when you first got your new computer and hit the power on button. Man, that thing was fast. Now after shareware downloads and a myriad of programs that you wanted to try out, It seems like it takes forever when its time to restart. This guide will help you get back that once known luster of a quick startup.

Windows Startup folder

The windows startup folder contains programs that are started automatically when windows boots up. Lots of auto update routines and such will be stored in this folder so that they can check for the latest and greatest version, licenses, etc. But it can also contain programs that you don’t use anymore or what’s worse, you may have never used to begin with. Many times computer manufacturers install common programs like Instant Messengers, ISP offers, etc. on new computers. If you don’t need any of these programs, what is the need to start them every time windows starts? Removing programs such as these will decrease boot time. Simply remove the program link from the startup folder and your shouldn’t need worry about the program starting up during boot.

System Configuration Utility

The system configuration utility is accessible by selecting Start > Run > Type “msconfig” then press enter. Now you can control how you want windows to start. To begin, select the BOOT.INI tab. I won’t go into the details about tweaking all of the options as there are downsides to some. But one option that can be changed with very little downside is the Timeout. The timeout box allows time for an OS loader to give choices to the user. Usually this is for selecting a recovery console or for a dual boot system. In any case, the timeout is the number of seconds that windows will display the message. So setting the timeout to 30 means that the message will be displayed 30 seconds. So if it is set on 30 now and we switch it to 3 seconds, which is ample time to press a key on the keyboard for most users. And we cut our boot time by 27 seconds.

Now we can move on to the services tab. Take care when dealing with services, some of them you absolutely must have. For more information on which services you need and which ones you don’t visit SXSecuirty Windows Services Guide for a list of needed services and such.

Now select the startup tab for a list of programs that are started when windows starts. Even if your startup folder is empty, a program can still start when windows boots unless you specifically tell it to do otherwise. Upon first entering the startup tab, you may notice that there are check marks beside every single item. This even includes some items that we may not ever use. For instance, I don’t chat on instant messengers, but for some reason the company that sold me this computer thought I did and installed AIM for me. Very nice for them to do that, but it’s not something I use, nor need. Different computers will have varying programs that startup, and many are unique. You’ll need to look through the list of programs, unchecking the ones that are not needed. Be aware that this doesn’t delete the program; it just stops it from loading when the system is booting. Keep in mind that there are some programs that need to be started when booting windows such as anti-virus.

Once you’ve finished, it may ask you to reboot your system. Go ahead and do it, and see if any of the changes you have made make a difference. You should be back up and running in no time.